Quantcast
Channel: Raw Edible Plants
Viewing all 106 articles
Browse latest View live

Marsh samphire (Salicornia europaea)

$
0
0
Marsh samphire (Salicornia europaea) is an annual plant from the Chenopodiaceae family. It is also known as sea asparagus, sea pickle, sampha, sampher, samfa, samfer, sampkin, a mermaid's kiss, common glasswort or glasswort.

Marsh samphire (Salicornia europaea) stems on a plate
Marsh samphire (S. europaea) stems


Marsh samphire plants look like small cacti but without the spines and the stems look like thin asparagus spears. Found natively in coastal areas of Western Europe, it grows on salt marshes, mud flats and is commonly found in estuaries. It is at its best from June until the end of August in the British Isles. It has a short growing season but is well worth foraging for.

Growing methods

It is not absolutely necessary to go foraging for this plant since seeds and plants can now be purchased for home growing. To grow from seed sow seeds under cover in trays in the spring. Germination takes between 5 to 20 days at 25°C and may be erratic. Once they are around 2-3cm in height, seedlings may be potted on to individual pots and grown on a windowsill. If a sunny sheltered spot is available outside, preferably with free draining soil, they can be grown outside. However, protect plants from harsh winter weather.

Plants benefit from watering with salt water (1 tsp per 2 litres of water). Use sea salt not table salt which contains all manner of additives. Keep soil moist at all times. Marsh samphire grows to about 30cm high. Leave one or two plants to flower and they will self seed. Seeds mature in September.

Other uses

Marsh samphire ash was once used in the glass and soap making industries. The plant is rich in vitamins, minerals and fucoidans. It has reportedly been used to aid digestion and kidney complaints.

Raw edible parts

Marsh samphire has raw edible fleshy jointed stems. They are better when young (under 15cm in height) and become tough later on. Marsh samphire can be used as a 'cut-and-come-again' plant. The stems will regenerate after cutting.  Woody older stems can still be eaten, simply pull off the flesh with the teeth and leave the woody bit for the compost bin. As the stems age, or if they contain a lot of salt, they turn a red colour. The crunchy salty stems add flavour to salads and can be pickled. The small black seed, which is a bit small and fiddly to handle, is not edible but the oil pressed from the seed is.

To gather stems, snip with scissors and take care not to pull up the roots. This is particularly important if wild foraging. Refrigerated, stems will keep for a few days. Some say don't wash before storing and they last longer. Marsh samphire can often be found in organic box deliveries during its short season and sometimes supermarkets. However, beware the supermarket variety since they won't always use local samphire. We purchased some this year and only later realised it had been shipped in all the way from Israel!

Marsh samphire (S. europaea) is not the same as rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum), the one that Shakespeare purportedly wrote about in King Lear! The latter is much less common and is more difficult to find growing on high rocky areas. However, the stems can be used in the same way.

Smooth Sow Thistle (Sonchus oleraceus)

$
0
0
Smooth Sow Thistle (Sonchus oleraceus) is a species from the Asteraceae or Compositae family. Also known by a variety of common names including common sow thistle, sow thistle, annual sow thistle, hare's thistle, hare's lettuce, hare's colwort, milk thistle (not Silybum marianum) and swinies. It is a native biennial commonly found in Europe including the British Isles.

Smooth sow thistle (S. oleraceus) growing in a crack in the pavement
Smooth sow thistle (S. oleraceus)
























A pioneer species, it will colonise bare ground that has been disturbed and can be found all year round in most areas including wasteland, rubbish tips, roadside verges and gardens. It often disappears during very severe winters. The plant below withstood hard frosts, hard frozen ground and snowfall in Scotland in December.

Smooth sow thistle (S. oleraceus) growing on a patio
Smooth sow thistle during a snowfall

























Growing methods


Seed can be sow in the spring on the surface of the soil, certainly no deeper than 20mm. They should germinate within the month at 5.3 – 6.8°C. Seedlings can be produced from April through to June but some will still be emerging in September. Smooth sow thistle can tolerate most soil conditions and prefers full sun. This plant does not do well in shady areas, dislikes trampling and grazing or mowing.

Fresh seed can be collected and sown the same day. Seed that has been saved and dried may be viable for 10 years. Smooth sow thistle produce thousands of seed although this can vary depending on growing conditions.

Plants grow to around one metre in height and have a flower very similar to a dandelion. The stem is upright and exudes a milky sap. The leaf form and flower colour may vary slightly depending on where they are grown. Check a wide variety of images online to get more of an idea on identification.

Smooth sow thistle will hybridize with prickly sow thistle (S. asper) to produce S. asper x glaucescens, a plant similar to smooth sow thistle but with slightly prickly leaves. There are several species of Sonchus in the British Isles, however, Sonchus oleraceus is the most common.

Other uses


Smooth sow thistle has strong medicinal properties and is high in nutrients including calcium, iron and vitamin C.

Raw edible parts


The plant can be used in a similar way to dandelion. The leaves, stalks, flowers and flowerbuds are edible raw. The green leaves are large and plentiful where they grow. They can be a little bitter, sometimes not at all. Blanching or boiling removes the bitterness. It has been used (cooked) as greens or spinach. The root can be eaten but is reportedly roasted first. The roasted root can also be used as a coffee substitute.

Daisy (Bellis perennis)

$
0
0

Daisy (Bellis perennis) is an herbaceous perennial from the Asteraceae or Compositae family. It is also known as lawn daisy, English daisy, common daisy, bone flower, bruisewort and woundwort. A beautiful low growing resilient little plant, it is commonly found in meadows and lawns of Europe but has also become naturalised in some areas of America, Australia and New Zealand. It is often treated as a weed in lawns in the British Isles. The flowers are attractive and encourage insect pollinators.

An image of daisies (Bellis perennis) with its edible flower buds, petals and leaves.
Daisy (Bellis perennis)


Growing methods

Sow dried seed in spring or autumn. Ripe fresh seed is available in June and can be sown immediately. Broadcast the seed in meadows or grassy areas. Alternatively, sow in seed trays. Seeds germinate from 2-14 days. Once the seedlings are large enough, they can be potted on and planted out in their final position in late summer. Plants grow to around 15 cm in height.

Propagate plants by division. This can be carried out during most times of the year although they do best during the spring and summer when they get a chance to establish.

This plant likes most well drained rich moist soils in a sunny or semi-shaded position. A good ground cover plant, it has a lengthy flowering season under the right conditions. It makes a great addition to cottage gardens or grassland areas managed for wild flowers and wildlife. Daisies grow well in lawns and come back up even after regular mowing mainly because of the compact leaves that sit flat and very close to the ground.

There are a lot of cultivars used for ornamental bedding plants available.

Other uses

The flowers, leaves and roots have been used in homeopathy and as a herbal remedy for a variety of ailments. In particular it was very popular as a cure for wounds but also liver disorders, mouth ulcers and catarrh, amongst other things. In addition it can also be made into an insect repellent. Flowers can be used dried as decoration. Children (and adults) make daisy chains with them!

Raw edible parts

The flower buds, petals and leaves are edible raw and can be made into a tea. They are great for salads. The open flowers are very decorative but can be slightly bitter or acrid. Flower buds can be pickled and used instead of capers. The leaves (think lamb's lettuce) have an astringent or sour flavour.

Daisies have been used (cooked) in soups and as a pot herb, the flower buds used as a sandwich filler. The odd flower can sometimes be found at this time of year (January) but mostly just the leaves. The flowers close up at night and open during the daylight.

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea)

$
0
0

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial, evergreen creeping plant of the Lamiaceae family. It has a large number of common names including creeping charlie, alehoof, field balm, gill over the ground, haymaids, hedgemaids, tunhoof, catsfoot (not Antennaria dioica), runaway robin and creeping jenny (not Lysimachia nummularia). It is also not ivy (hedera helix)!

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) growing wild in the ground.
Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea)


It is commonly found in the British Isles and many other areas of the world including the USA, Canada and most of Europe. It is often classed as a weed but this is the case with many useful and edible wild plants and we're inclined not to take much notice of that!

Growing methods

Sow seeds on the surface and barely cover with soil in the spring or early autumn. Seeds need to be cold treated for two weeks prior to sowing. Seeds require light and moisture for germination. They will germinate within 10 days at 10°C. Ground ivy grows to about 20cm in height and spreads as far as you will let it! It prefers woodlands, hedges and shady damp areas.

Wild seed usually remains viable for short spells in the ground. Wild plants passively disperse seed which becomes mucilaginous when wet. Ground ivy spreads easily by runners that put down roots. It can easily be propagated by potting up a runner. If you are stuck for time, ready-grown plugs and plants can usually be purchased from wild flower companies.

Other uses

It is attractive to insect pollinators. It is a good ground cover plant for gardens since it colonises easily and does well in sunny or shaded areas. It has been a popular folk remedy for many conditions including tinnitus, sciatica, coughs, TB, digestive and kidney disorders. Historically it was used for brewing beer to clarify, add flavour and shelf life. It has also been used as a pot herb, cooked like spinach and used as a salad ingredient. It has been recommended as an antidote for stinging nettle stings.

Issues

There are some cautions regarding it's use but overall it appears to be a fairly safe plant. Large quantities may be toxic to some animals. It is vigorous and will spread readily.

Raw Edible Parts

The kidney-shaped scalloped leaves, the square stems and small violet coloured flowers are all edible raw and can be picked at any time of year. The plant has an overall mild pepper flavour and smells of blackcurrants. A herbal tea can be made from it which is called Gill tea.

Edible plants for March

Fat Hen (Chenopodium album)

$
0
0
Fat Hen (Chenopodium album) is an annual plant belonging to the Chenopodiaceae family. Other common names include lambs quarters, goosefoot and pig weed. The leaves have the shape of a goose foot, hence the common name 'goosefoot'. It is a native British plant but is also found in Europe, Asia, Australia and North America. It can be seen on or around the edges of arable fields, hedgerows and waste land. It frequently comes up in our vegetable patch.

Fat hen (Chenopodium album) growing in the vegetable patch
Fat hen growing in the vegetable patch























 
Growing methods

Sow seeds in spring in situ. Seeds will usually germinate within a few days and the plant is fast growing. Fat hen is in flower from July to October in Britain. Seeds are produced on the plant from August to October. It is wind pollinated, prefers full sun and will thrive in long summer days. Plants that emerge earlier in the year will be leafy and large. It is frost sensitive and rarely survives the winter. Fat hen will self seed and come up by itself in subsequent years. Seed can remain viable in the soil for many years.

Other uses

Fat hen has been used in folk medicine and grown as a feed crop for animals. The crushed fresh roots and the water residue from seed rinsing can be used as a soap. A green dye can be made out of the green shoots.

Raw edible parts

The young leaves and shoots, tops of mature plants, the flowers and sprouted seed are all edible raw but probably in moderation (see Issues). The seed, which is similar to quinoa, can also be dried and ground into a meal. It is best to rinse it thoroughly to remove the saponins before sprouting. Use the resulting soapy water for washing skin and clothes.

The leaves can be cooked and used as spinach. The young inflorescences (cluster of flowers on the stem) can be cooked and used like broccoli.

Fat hen has matt blue-green leaves which repel water. The whole plant has a faint cabbage-like smell and taste to it.

Issues

Fat hen contains saponins which are glycosides that froth up like soap. It also contains oxalic acid and can contain nitrates depending if the soil is nitrogen-rich or not.

Bistort (Polygonum bistorta)

$
0
0
Bistort (Polygonum bistorta) is a hardy perennial within the Polygonaceae family. Also known as bistort, common bistort, meadow bistort, pink pokers, knotweed, adderwort and snakeweed. It is found in northern and central Europe including Britain, mountains of southern Europe, western and central Asia. It grows in acidic soil in damp meadows, bog gardens and cultivated beds.

Bistort growing in a polytunnel amongst the squash
























Growing methods

Sow seeds in spring under cover and then pot on as the seedlings grow, planting out to their final position when big enough. Seeds germinate easily. It is a good addition to a cottage garden. Alternatively propagate by division in spring or autumn. It is generally free of pests and diseases. It is a sprawling leggy plant growing up to 0.5m by 0.5m. The pink flowers develop from June to September. The seeds ripen from August to October. It will grow in semi-shade or no shade preferring damp or wet soil.

Other uses

Bistort is very astringent and has many herbal medicinal uses.

Raw edible parts

The leaves, seed and roots are edible raw. The leaves are best used raw in salads. They do become a little chewy as they age. This plant grows alongside chickweed in and around our tomato and squash plants our polytunnel, coming up as and when it pleases. The seeds are tiny and we don't bother with them except to save them in case we want to sow them. They can be dried, ground down into a powder and added to bread. Although it is a perennial plant, we have treated it as an annual for salad leaves and seed. We do the same with chickweed seed, which are also very tiny. We don't think you would really want to be eating the root raw since the thinner younger roots are stringy and the older roots are very woody. If you treat the plant as a perennial, then you will have more roots, and it might be worth it. As a point of interest, the root contains tannin.

Bistort root
















As another point of interest, the leaves can be cooked and eaten like spinach; the root can be soaked (to reduce the tannin level) in water and then roasted; and the seeds can be cooked.

The form 'Superba' is a larger plant and grown as a garden ornamental. We can't say whether the nutritional content varies or whether it is safe to eat. As far as we know this plant was bred for its visual rather than nutritional qualities. Do, however, remember that conventional plant production occasionally generates plants with undesirable traits, some of which are potentially hazardous to human health. Most crops naturally produce allergens, toxins, or other anti-nutritional substances. Standard practice among plant breeders includes monitoring the levels of potentially hazardous anti-nutritional substances relevant to the crop.

Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria)

$
0
0
Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria) is a perennial plant from the Apiaceae or carrot and parsley family. Also known as bishop's weed, bishop's goutweed, goutweed, gout wort, herb Gerard, wild masterwort, English masterwort, jump about and snow-in-the-mountain. It is commonly found in the British Isles and most of Europe.

Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria) - young leaves


Growing methods

Sow seeds in the spring under cover in pots. If growing from seed, fresh seeds need a period of cold before germinating. Pot on when the seedlings are large enough and plant them out in the summer of the same year. A self fertile plant it grows to about 60cm (2') in height and produces creamy white umbelliferous flowers from May to July in Britain. It likes damp shadowy places but succeeds almost anywhere and is a good ground cover plant.

Ground elder can also be propagated by division. Find some rhizomes (underground stems) locally and plant them out. They will grow. However, think carefully where you put this plant since it is very aggressive. It is termed an invasive weed and banned in certain places in North America. Rhizomes can grow up to 90 cm in a year. Stem growth can be restricted using a root container.

Other uses

Historically it has a range of medicinal uses, particularly for arthritis and rheumatism, but doesn't appear to be so popular today. Traditionally this plant was grown as a remedy for gout suffered by the clergy because of their rich diet, hence the name 'bishop's weed'.

Issues

Ground elder is not generally very popular with gardeners as once established it is very difficult to get rid of. You need to pull up all pieces of root because they will take and the plant re-establish itself very easily.

Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria) - older leaves


Raw edible parts

Ground elder is a very pungent plant, smelling and tasting a lot like sweet parsley. It's a bit like Marmite, you either love it or hate it. The very young translucent stems, leaves and ground shoots from February onwards are edible raw. If you keep cutting the plant back new young shoots will emerge. Older leaves are very strong and far too chewy to eat raw. The leaves were (and still can be) cooked like spinach. The seed can be used as a condiment.

Rewilding a garden

$
0
0

We thought we would share with you our experience of rewilding an ordinary garden. It's not the first time we've had a go at this but when we tried it before it was on a much smaller scale.

Buttercups flourishing in the uncut lawn














We currently have several large areas of lawn which takes literally hours to mow during the summer months. In addition there are six borders comprising large shrubs, two small trees and smaller low growing perennial plants. Keeping it all tidy was proving exhausting and it became necessary to cut down on the work. Of course, this wasn't all about not working. We were also very keen on rewilding and attracting native wild plants and wildlife.

The first thing we did was to stop all the more traditional jobs around the place such as sowing, planting, weeding, removing dead material, pruning, strimming and mowing. We did, however, continue to grow vegetables in the polytunnel.

Mowing was probably the most time consuming task of all. We, more or less, stopped this completely, leaving the lawn to its own devices. Areas close to a section of regenerating woodland quickly reverted back to their original state. The more formal lawns closer to the house are taking longer to rewild. It is possible they don't contain any original root or seed stock.

Part of the lawn that we cut for a seating area



















We decided to mow a small section of lawn for our own use to put up a tent, lay in the sun, sit, read, eat and do small jobs like mend a bike. We also put in a couple of long narrow paths to reach the compost bin and the back door of the house. We used a small electric mower for this.

The old strimmer had long since given up the ghost and had been replaced with a petrol brush cutter - what were we thinking?! However, although it had been taken out of the box, it had never been used - we knew it was wrong! We just couldn't bring ourselves to use it mainly because it needed petrol, was extremely noisy and indiscriminately destructive. Finally, we purchased a long handled scythe. It is probably one of the best tools we have and is in constant use.

Rewilded (damp!) lawn area



















The plants that came up in the lawn areas included buttercups, white clover, daisies, self heal, sheep's sorrel, stinging nettles, docks, horsetail, spagnum moss, common rush, lady's smock, bluebells, common orchid, germander speedwell, spignel, dandelions and hawkbit. The buttercups were probably the most successful and flourished particularly well. No surprise there!

A variety of flowers coming up in the lawn



















Amongst the shrubs and other perennials, that the previous owners had planted in the borders, we had an interesting variety of new comers including wild raspberries, rosebay willowherb, bluebells, broad leafed willowherb, ground elder, brambles, common rush and germander speedwell. The wild raspberries and rosebay willowherb spread far and wide since their underground root systems are particularly robust. The ground elder appeared to be already well established and this spread. An attractive plant, it is often vilified by gardeners for its persistence.

Some of the established border perennials didn't get a chance to flower properly as they became overgrown. There was a tendency to want to revert to our old practice of weeding when this happened but we generally didn't bother. We'd like to say we made a great effort not to weed but there wasn't actually any effort involved. It was really easy!

Rosebay willowherb and wild raspberries in a border area


The benefits to the household of not doing all the usual traditional gardening jobs were immediately fairly obvious. There was much less work and this freed up our time to do other things! Occasionally we watered something we liked which we thought needed a little help during the hot weather. However, that wasn't really necessary in the often wet maritime climate of the British Isles.

Our conclusions from this modest little experiment were that a) wild plant seeds, roots and bulbs were there waiting for a chance to grow; b) the variety of wild plants easily increased each year and; c) the number of each species also grew each year. In other words, once something grew, it spread. A lot!

One of our acrobatic red squirrels in a rather fetching pose

















Overall we feel the number of butterflies, bees and other insects attracted into the garden has also been much higher. There have been a lot more this year (2018) than in previous years. However, there are probably more insects around generally this year so it is difficult to be objective about this.

There has definitely been an increase of food available for wildlife. The plants brought the insects in and produced a lot of seed. The seed from the long lawn grasses were welcome by birds that turned up during the winter, particularly the chaffinches. There was more cover for wildlife. We have a variety of creatures visit and reside here including a great many species of birds, mice, newts, toads, red squirrels, brown hare and stoats. We've seen a marked increase in bird numbers and species of birds except the house martins whose numbers have dramatically decreased. This overall benefit seems to persist throughout the year since we don't clear away dead plants at the end of the growing season.


Pathway to the compost bin



















There were some perceived downsides to all this. We noted at least five species of plants and shrubs, which had obviously been introduced to the area, spreading. Whether this is a good or bad thing remains to be seen.

We live in a rural area so didn't feel any pressure from neighbours to mow the lawn, weed the borders and generally keep the garden 'tidy'. However, we have experienced such pressure before when we lived in a surburban area and realise this might be a problem for some. Neighbours are often worried about dandelions spreading and don't like to see them in lawns! We are delighted to see dandelions since they are such a useful plant. When we first arrived there were none at all. Anywhere. In fact, we don't think we saw one until about the third year. They have now self seeded and are, thankfully, doing well.

Ground elder flowering in one of the borders



















Overall we feel plantlife and wildlife gained a lot from this hands off approach. For those who find gardening relaxing, this definitely takes relaxation to another level. We were much less stressed and more in tune with our surroundings. In addition, we would highly recommend it to those who are less able bodied and perhaps struggle to keep their garden 'under control'.

In our opinion rewilding a garden is highly beneficial to human health. There may well be research on this available already but if not there should be. We would imagine those living in urban areas would benefit the most from this effect and we really hope more people living in towns and cities will try it.

Common spotted orchid in the lawn area



Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus)

$
0
0
The blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) is a hardy self-fertile deciduous shrub from the Rosaceae family. Also known as brambles. Botanically, it is an aggregate fruit composed of small drupelets. The roots are perennial and the stems are biennial. Once the fruit is produced the stems die down. There are over 375 species, many of which are closely related.

It is very common in the British Isles and once established can produce vast quantities of fruit. Gardeners often find they can't get rid of a shrub in a garden setting but it is best to make good use of a vigorous blackberry rather than try to eradicate it!

An image of wild blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) growing in Scotland
Wild blackberries (R. fruticosus) growing in Scotland




















Growing methods

The blackberry is usually found in woodland, on waste ground, in hedgerows and meadows. It is in leaf from March onwards, flowers from May to September and fruits from August until November. It prefers moist soil and semi-shady conditions but the fruit ripens best when the shrub is in a sunny position. The blackberry will tolerate poor soil, drought and windy conditions.

Shrubs can be propagated by seed sowing, tip layering, cuttings and division. If growing by seed sow in the autumn under cover. Stratifying the seed will help germination. Prick out seedlings and pot on under cover. Plant outside during the following spring. If tip layering, do so in the summer and plant out in the autumn. Cuttings may be also taken in the summer. Use semi-ripe wood. If propagating by division do so either in early spring or just before leaves fall in the autumn.

Various cultivated varieties are available for purchase. These can be trained in a variety of different ways.

Birds enjoy the fruit so shrubs may need to be protected with fleece or netting.

Other uses

The blackberry is a pioneer shrub which can also protect trees during their early growth. The fruit can also be used as a dye. The stem can be used to make fibre. The root and leaves can be used medicinally. The blackberry is a very good shrub for attracting wildlife.

Raw edible parts

The young leaves, young ground shoots and fruit are all edible raw. The fruit is very popular and should be picked when ripe and used immediately. It is often made into jams, jellies, syrups and pies. Although most people cook the blackberries for these recipes, they can be made using raw fruit. They can also be frozen for use later on. The leaves can be fermented, dried and used for black tea. The fresh leaves can be made into a green tea. The newly emerged ground shoots should be peeled before eating.

 As a point of interest all Rubus species have edible fruits.

Rewilding

$
0
0
According to Caroline Fraser in her book 'Rewilding the World' biodiversity loss is now lining up to be the greatest man-made crisis the world has ever known. It is the Sixth Great Extinction or Holocene extinction event, named after the current geological time period. We now know that the loss of species can actually destroy ecosystems. Caroline says “ … we have learned that everything is interdependent. There are no spare parts … Lose the animals, lose the ecosystems. Lose the ecosystems, game over.”



An image of Carrifran - a 1600 acre rewilding project in the Moffat hills.
Carrifran - a 1600 acre rewilding project in the Moffat hills

























Ecosystems provide all our basic needs enabling us to survive on this planet. These include the provision of food, water, fuel, fibre and medicine; the regulation of everything within the climate such as air quality, water, disease, pollination and disease; the support of nutrient and water cycling, soil formation and photosynthesis; and cultural benefits such as spiritual and recreational needs.

Rewilding as a conservation strategy is one of the most exciting and promising method of restoring the balance to our ecosystems. An emerging movement, it is based around a new way of looking at conservation. It can be applied to small or large scale projects for the land or the sea.



Trees for Life say that “Nowadays, the definition has come to encompass the whole process of returning ecosystems to a state of ecological health and dynamic balance, making them self-sustaining, without the need for ongoing human management.”

Rewilding ensures natural processes and wild species play a more prominent role. So, after initial support, nature is allowed to take more care of itself.

According to Rewilding Europe“Loss of biodiversity and climate change are among the biggest challenges for mankind. Humans have developed a quasi-geological force and are modifying the planet on a huge scale and at an unprecedented rate. The future of the planet lies in our hands. The time to act is now.”

As part of the solution they envision a European continent where the last wilderness areas are protected and where wildlife, natural processes and biodiversity are allowed to thrive. “Conservation in Europe has been different to the rest of the world. Because most of the wilderness was lost a long time ago, nature conservation focused on cultivated land, ancient farming systems and semi-natural, managed habitats, often depending on public subsidies and private engagement. This compensatory habitat approach has its value and certainly rescued many species from extinction, but an important part for conservation and biodiversity protection was left out; the preservation of wilderness and natural processes.”

Rewilding Britain is a charity who believe that rewilding provides hope for the future for people and nature. “Britain's land is almost all managed. Even in most conservation areas natural processes are arrested. We have lost more of our large mammals than almost any other European country. While the average forest cover in the rest of Europe is 37%, the UK has only 12% … Our national parks are dominated by sheep farms and grouse or deer estates, leaving almost all our hills bare. Over 99% of our seabed is scoured or ploughed by commercial fishing ... Through rewilding we can start to reverse centuries of ecological damage. We can re-establish natural processes, reconnect with nature and regain wonder for the natural world.”

Rewilding Britain want to see at least one million hectares of Britain's land, and 30 per cent of it's territorial waters, supporting natural ecological processes and key species. They say: “The island of Britain is geographically diverse and consists of three nations with differing political systems. Rewilding projects on the ground need to be locally owned and locally run. One thing binds us all – our ecosystems need help.”

Sea Vegetables

$
0
0
There are over six hundred different sea vegetables or seaweeds growing on the coast of the British Isles. Mostseaweed is edible but some taste a lot better than others. The general guidelines for foraging land-based plants applies to seaweeds. It is very important to forage for seaweed in clean coastal areas. Certainly don't take anything from around waste pipes which feed out into the sea! In addition, beaches may be owned by a council, a trust or even a private individual, so do ask for permission to forage if necessary.

Here are a few of the more popular species to try. For those who don't live near the coast, many British seaweeds can also be purchased (dried) by mail order.

Carragheen (Chondrus crispus)A red algae. Also known as Irish moss, chondrus and carrageen. Carragheen can be eaten raw. It is used commercially as a thickener and stabiliser. It is an excellent alternative to gelatin (boiled bones, skins and tendons of animals) and has similar properties. It can be soaked and gently heated until soft and gooey. Sieve or blend in a high quality blender to obtain a really smooth consistency. It will thicken soups, ice cream, smoothies and cheesecakes. It can be added to raw breads instead of psyllium to improve the texture. False Irish moss (Mastocarpus stellatus) is closely related to Chondrus crispusand is also sold as carragheen or Irish moss. It can be used in a similar way.

An image of carragheen (Chondrus crispus), a red algae.
Carragheen (C.crispus)


Dabberlocks (Alaria esculenta)A large brown algae. Also known as badderlocks, Irish or Atlantic wakame, winged kelp or murlin. It is one of several species of Alariaaround the British Isles. Dabberlocks can be eaten raw. It can be used in soups or fresh in salads. It can also be dried. Dried dabberlocks can bere-hydrated by soaking in warm water until soft.

Dulse (Palmaria palmata)A red algae. Also known as dillisk, dilsk or sea lettuce flakes. Dulse can be eaten raw. Dry it and use as a crispy snack. Dried or fresh it can be added to salads. Ground down into a powder dulse used as a flavour enhancer in soups and other savoury dishes. Dried dulse can be re-hydrated by soaking briefly in warm water until soft.

An image of dulse (Palmaria palmata), a red algae.
Dulse (P. palmata)


Sea Lettuce (Ulva lactuca)A green algae. Colour wise this is very green and looks more like a lettuce. It is very good raw and can have a slightly bitter taste if cooked. These are the salad greens of the seaweeds. Chop up the fresh or dried leaves and add to salads. It can also be added to smoothies.

Sea spaghetti (Himanthalia elongata)A brown algae. Also known as sea tangle, riseach, sea thong, thongweed or buttonweed. This seaweed looks much like a dark green tagliatelle and has a mild flavour. It can be eaten raw or dried for later use. Use instead of wheat pasta with a tomato sauce or add to salads. Dried sea spaghetti can be re-hydrated by soaking in warm water until soft.

 
An image of sea spaghetti (Himanthalia elongata), a brown algae.
Sea spaghetti (H. elongata)

Sugar Kelp (Laminaria saccharina)A brown algae. Also known as sweet tangle, sugar wrack, sweet kelp or kombu royale. The Laminariaspecies are commonly known as kombu. Sugar kelp can be eaten raw. It can be dried and used as a crispy snack. Use in salads or instead of pasta with a raw tomato sauce. Alternatively, it can be pickled or used to make vegan sushi. It has a sweetish flavour hence the name. Dried sugar kelp can be re-hydrated by soaking in warm water until soft.

An excerpt from Edible Plants for Preppers by Amanda Rofe. Available on Amazon Kindle.

Fungi

$
0
0

This is an excerpt from 'Edible Plants for Preppers' by Amanda Rofe (Amazon Kindle). Price £2.50 or free with Kindle Unlimited. It is a plant-based guide for anyone interested in being more resilient and self-sufficient in food in these uncertain times.


The front cover of Edible Plants for Preppers by Amanda Rofe (Amazon Kindle)
























In the British Isles there are thousands of fungi and some of them are edible. It can be difficult to identify fungi and some are absolutely deadly. Simply tasting a tiny piece of unidentified mushroom can be very dangerous and a quarter of a teaspoon of a really poisonous mushroom can kill. Even the very safe and supposedly foolproof chicken of the woods can make 5 per cent of people sick. Certain mushrooms can cause illness if eating in conjunction with alcohol.

It is the case that some people will react badly to some edible mushrooms, even so-called safe ones. However, mushroom poisoning usually causes vomiting and diarrhoea but no long-term damage. It is generally considered that the overall benefits of eating and using fungi far outweigh the downside. They really are the good guys. This is the reason we carry on using them.

Some mushroom experts recommend cooking all mushrooms, particularly those that have been foraged wild, because they contain irritating or toxic substances such as hydrazines, and they also recommend eating them in moderation. This includes Agaricus bisporus, which is the button or white mushroom, commonly sold in the supermarkets! It should be emphasised that no amount of cooking is going to make the death cap or destroying angel safe to eat.

A document by the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) informs us that there are only a very few poisonous mushrooms and that the only reliable guide to edibility is the knowledge that someone has eaten a particular type and survived! Some edible species are poisonous when raw, but fine when cooked. Local knowledge of safe fungi are crucially important. Unfortunately, as people die or move away from rural areas, this knowledge is often lost.

Training should be sought from a knowledgeable person in correct identification when foraging and there are many good fungi courses available. Personal tuition is infinitely better than a book. If using books choose a range because one picture will not be sufficient for identification purposes.

Those who don’t feel confident foraging for wild mushrooms can purchase mushroom spawn (similar to seed) for home cultivation including mushroom kits, mushroom logs, and wooden dowels which are impregnated with spawn. The dowels must be pressed into holes that have been drilled in suitable logs. Some of the medicinal mushrooms such as reishi (Ganoderma lucidum), maitake (Grifola frondosa) and shi-itake (Lentinula edodes), can be grown on logs like this.

An image of wooden dowels impregnated with chicken of the woods
Wooden dowels impregnated with chicken of the woods
















Storage and use: Drying is probably one of the best ways of storing mushrooms. Dried mushrooms should always be re-hydrated before use. Just add warm water and soak for 20-30 minutes. Dried mushrooms expand by 3-4 times after rehydration. Drain and use the soak water as a broth for sauces, soups or stews. In this way mushrooms can be used as a savoury ‘tea’ and is a particularly good way of using the medicinal mushrooms. Dried mushrooms are flavour intensive and give a ‘meaty’ taste and texture meals. They are very useful for those who are missing meat from their diet. Some of my favourite dried mushrooms for soups and stews include chanterelle, chicken of the woods, porcini and morel.

Dried mushrooms can also be purchased in bulk for storage. This does save the worry of identification and the bother of home drying. However, as with all purchased dehydrated foods, they can be expensive.

An image of dried porcini mushrooms
Dried porcini mushrooms




















Examples of edible fungi

Some well known edible fungi that grow in the British Isles include the following species: Anise cap(Clitocybe odora), bay bolete (Boletus badius), beefsteak fungus(Fistulina hepatica), cep (Boletus edulis), chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius), chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus), common puffball (Lycoperdon perlatum), fairy ring champignon (Marasmius oreades), field blewit (Lepista saeva), field mushroom (Agaricus campestris), giant puffball (Calvatia gigantea), hedgehog fungus(Hydnum repandum), honey fungus (Armillariella mellea), horn of plenty (Craterellus cornucopoides), horse mushroom (Agaricus arvensis), Jew’s ear (Hirneola auricula-judae), lion’s mane(Hericium erinaceum), morel (Morchella esculenta), oyster mushroom(Pleurotus ostreatus), parasol mushroom (Macrolepiota procera), saffron milk cap (Lactarius deliciosus), shaggy ink cap (Coprinus comatus), shaggy parasol (Macrolepiota rhacodes), St George’s mushroom (Tricholoma gambosum), truffle (Tuber aestivum), velvet shank (Flammulina velutipes), wood cauliflower (Sparassis crispa), wood hedgehog (Hydnum repandum) and wood blew it (Lepista nuda).


The foolproof four

These mushrooms are some of the easiest to identify and for that reason are often called the ‘foolproof four’. This is mainly why I have given these five stars although they do taste very good as well.

Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) *****
Chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus) *****
Giant puffball (Calvatia gigantea) *****
Morel (Morchella esculenta) *****

An image of dried chanterelle mushrooms
Dried chanterelle mushrooms




















Notes

Edible Plants for Preppers is a plant-based (vegan) guide which recommends a raw food diet but does also include references to cooked foods.

Five star ***** plants are those those that have certain qualities which make them stand out from the rest e.g. they can be found abundantly in the wild or they have many uses.

Foraging and growing wild plants

$
0
0

Finding wild plants

Wild food is absolutely everywhere. There are hundreds of edible wild plants in the British Isles. Wild plants grow in most back gardens, particularly those that haven't been weeded to within an inch of their sad and sorry little lives. Wild plants are itching to come up in all sorts of unlikely places and they will colonise anywhere from a lawn to a crack in the pavement.


An image of the tips of wild garlic plants emerging out of the ground.
Wild garlic available now in the UK for foraging or grow your own




















The easiest way to find wild plants without spending the weekend trekking over half of the New Forest (although this does sound good) is to leave an area of the back garden untouched. Spring or summer are the best times to try this. If no wild plants come up (unlikely) then they can be grown from seed obtained from mail order companies. These plants will still be as good. However, unless the soil has been sterilised (unlikely), badly contaminated (possible) or completely destroyed (unlikely but possible), it will have wild plant seeds or roots in situ just waiting for the opportunity to grow.

Foraging guidelines

Use basic common sense when picking wild plants. The most important thing to do is to correctly identify the plant. If using reference books, use at least two or three photographs and remember that plants don't look the same all year round. There are plenty of photographs of wild plants available online. Also check out wild flower and wild food books. First timers, untrained in the art of identification, maybe shouldn't risk picking plants like Queen Anne's lace (Daucus carota) because of its resemblance to hemlock (Conium maculatum), which is poisonous.

Always use the Latin name in conjunction with, or instead of, common names. Latin names are usually italicised and listed here in brackets. A Latin name will correctly identify the plant required. The same local or common name can be used for many different plants so it can make identification very difficult. Cleavers (Galium aparine) is also known as clivers, goose grass, beggar's lice, cleaverwort, everlasting friendship, grip grass, scratch grass, stick-a-back, sticky willie, sticky willy, scarthgrass, white hedge and catchweed bedstraw. Enough said.

Always take care when foraging that plants have not been contaminated by chemicals, human sewage, animal manures or any other nasty. This advice is more important outside the controlled environment of a private garden. Do not, for example, pick anything from alongside busy roads where exhaust fumes have polluted everything in sight. Also be careful of industrial sites where any type of chemical or other contaminant could have been spilled. Beware of woodland edges that border onto ploughed farmland as they could have been caught by chemical spray drift. If there is the slightest hint of any chemicals or other contaminants being used anywhere near wild plants, do not pick them.

Avoid picking dodgy, diseased, dying or dead foliage and certainly don't eat it. Dodgy means anything that doesn't look or 'feel' entirely right (OK I made that up but it still applies). Diseased plant material may have coloured (usually not green!) patches or spots. Typically yellow and red before going grey, brown or black. Dead foliage will be dry and crispy. Do not ingest.

Forage for flowers, fruit, fungi or foliage only. Don't uproot plants or destroy plants. Removing roots may kill a plant. Also, certain wild plants are rare and protected so should not be touched for obvious reasons. Try to avoid taking too many or any annual flowers as these provide the seed stock for next year's plants. Pick all wild plants in moderation and leave plenty, particularly for the wildlife who live there. Don't repeatedly strip the same area time and again. Don't disturb dead wood, break branches, trample the ground or destroy anything. Don't leave litter behind and take any litter away, regardless of who it belongs to. Be respectful and quiet. Do not disturb the wildlife. Take delight in the natural environment. Close gates.

Check what Laws apply to the area being foraged. Get permission if needs be, particularly if foraging on private land. Anything taken from private land without permission could be considered theft. However, private landowner's may be happy to allow foraging for a share of the booty.

Growing our own

If it isn't practical to go foraging, the plants in this book can be grown at home. One of the best ways is by using a plant-based system called vegan-organic (or stockfree organic) cultivation. Vegan organics avoids the use of artificial chemicals, genetically modified material (GMOs) and all animal products such as manure, blood, bonemeal, fishmeal and feathers.It is carbon neutral and climate friendly, supporting wildlife and providing a long-term sustainable way of producing food. Aplant-based agricultural system like this can feed far more people than that based on meat, milk and other animal products.

How do we enrich the soil if we don't use manure and other animal products? Plants feed the soil themselves without needing to pass through an animal first. Soil fertility originates from plants and can be maintained and even increased by using certain methods of plant-based cultivation such as crop rotation, mulching, composting, by using green manures and seaweed meal (not calcified)

This is an excerpt from Raw Edible Wild Plants for the British Isles (& other places too) by Amanda Rofe. Chapter 2. Foraging and growing. Published on Amazon Kindle £2.50 or free on Kindle Unlimited.

Edible flowers and leaves

$
0
0
This is an excerpt from Raw Edible Flowers and Leaves by Amanda Rofe. Available on Amazon Kindle for £2.50. It refers specifically to those plants listed in the book but provides a useful general overview regarding what parts of the flowes and leaves we should be eating.

Eating the flowers

When we talk about edible flowers, generally speaking we refer to the petals only. However, this doesn't necessarily mean the rest of the flower is inedible. It usually means we are taking the choice part of the plant. It is often recommended to remove the stamens, pistils, and sepals before eating because they can be bitter or might aggravate allergies. It is also said that these parts can detract from the flavour.



In all fairness thewhite base of the petal on some plants can be bitter. However, it would have to be quite big and very bitter for me to bother with removing because it is fiddly and time consuming. If the petals are a little bitter, small amounts can be tolerated or the bitterness masked with a salad dressing.

A word about sepals. These are the green leaves that surround the base of the petal. Some recommend removing all the sepals of all flowers except the Violas. However, this is only a general rule and I urge flower pickers to use their own initiative. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) sepals, for example, are perfectly edible and I usually include them when I snip the petals off this flower.

Certainly do a taste test before spending hours snipping bits off. If it is listed as edible and tastes good then it is sometimes not worth wasting time removing various parts. There are certain flowers that have a long tradition of being eaten whole and these include Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris), Borage (Borago officinalis), Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) and all Violas (Violaspecies).

Many flowers are used as adornments to dishes, particularly at weddings or other special occasions, but it doesn't necessarily mean they are edible. Always check before eating anything. Never eat flowers from garden centres, nurseries, supermarkets, fruit shops or florist shops as these are usually grown using chemicals, unless they are specifically labelled as edible (unlikely).

Some flowers are edible but really don't taste nice enough to eat. In addition, depending on the growing conditions, some flowers will taste very sweet while others will be very bitter. I repeatedly see articles referring to Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) flowers being very sweet but all the Lilac that I have ever tasted have been bitter.

Pollen from flowers is highly nutritious but the outer coating needs to be cracked or shattered otherwise only a tiny percentage of the pollen will be digested. This coating is so good that it can protect a pollen grain from rotting for tens of thousands of years. There has been talk of Vitamix blenders being able to crack the pollen coating but at the time of writing the company were unable to confirm either way. There are some companies who have used various techniques such as fermentation or low temperature air pulverization, to make the flower pollen more bio-available and these are available to purchase.If collecting pollen eat immediately or freeze because it will rapidly go mouldy at room temperature.

Anyone with hayfever, allergies or asthma should be careful eating the pollen on flowers since this is the part that usually causes an allergic reaction. Choose one flower at a time and if any reaction does occur stop eating immediately!

Eating the leaves

Unless specified otherwise, if it says leaves, then it means all the leaves. However, the young and fast growing leaves of the wild varieties usually taste better. As wild plants get older or if they are living under stressful conditions, they often become quite tough and bitter. The leaves of the domesticated varieties of plants used for salads or greens, on the other hand, are usually more tasty and nutritious if left to mature. Many are better before the plant produces flowers.

Foraging in July

$
0
0
Here are some of the wild edible plants that can be found in the British Isles in July. The links will take you to more detailed information about the plants. Happy eating!

Stinging nettles (Urtica dioica)

Eat 'em while you can. These little beauties are super healthy and free for the taking. Remember the darker and more purple coloured plants are stronger in flavour. Use the lighter coloured leaves and tops if you can. Cut down at base level and use as a cut-and-come-again plant. Use it like spinach and you can't go wrong. We also like it raw in smoothies.

Stinging nettles (Urtica dioica)














Chickweed (Stellaria media)

Chickweed is great for salads. If the stem is a bit stringy, just strip off the leaves. Otherwise use a pair of scissors and cut the young plants at base level (like cutting mustard and cress) or pick off the growing tops of the older plants. It is very mild tasting and a good substitute for lettuce.

Chickweed (Stellaria media)

Smooth sow thistle (Sonchus oleraceus)

This is another bland tasting leaf which is good for salads. It is slightly crunchy and one of our favourites. We tend to leave the whole plant and just pull off the large leaves as and when we need them.

Smooth sow thistle (Sonchus oleraceus)



















Daisy (Bellis perennis)

Daisies can be found in garden lawns. They are easily identifiable with their spoon shaped leaves and pretty yellow and white flowers. We use the lemon-flavoured leaves and whole flowers in salads.

Daisy (Bellis perennis)














Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Another easily identifiable plant, the ubiquitous dandelion can be found everywhere. Use the leaves and yellow petals in salads. The roots can be dry roasted to make dandelion coffee.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)



















Wild raspberry (Rubus idaeus)

We are awash with wild raspberries this year. They are bigger than last year and extra juicy. They seem to have really liked the dry hot spell. Use as you would the cultivated fruit. Wild strawberries (Fragaria vesca) are also available.

Wild raspberry (Rubus idaeus)










Others

Common mallow (Malva sylvestris) or musk mallow (M. moschata), fat hen (Chenopodium album), yarrow (Achillea millefolium) and chanterelle mushrooms (Cantharellus cibarius).


QUICK EDIBLE PLANT GUIDE

$
0
0
Plants for milk and cream
Almond
Flax
Hazelnut
Hemp
Oats
Soya beans (soy: USA)

Plants for black tea
Tea shrub
Blackberry
Raspberry
Strawberry

 
Wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca)



Plants for herbal tea
Chamomile
Chickweed
Elderflower
Fennel
Mint
Nettle

Plants for 'coffee'
Carrot
Chicory
Dandelion
Jerusalem artichoke
Parsnip
Rye

Culinary and medicinal plants
Chamomile (German or Roman)
Common thyme
Garlic
Mint
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
Valerian
Yarrow

Plants for flavour & scent
Sweet dried fruit, ripe fresh fruit, stevia and the syrup of Jerusalem artichoke, sugar beet or tree sap e.g. pine, silver birch, sycamore, walnut
Salt/savoury celery, green purslane, lovage, salt bush, sea salt (home-made), seaweed and plants grown on the sea shore or by estuaries e.g. marsh samphire and rock samphire
Pepper alexanders, nasturtium, rocket, shepherd's purse
Chilli/hot/mustard chilli pepper, garlic mustard, horseradish, nasturtium
Garlic garlic, garlic mustard, ramsons
Bitter cat's ear, dandelion, hawkweed, plantain
Sour gooseberry, grape, plum, green tomatoes, ground cherry, iron cross plant
Aroma common thyme, lavender, mint, pine, rose, rosemary, sage, violets

Sage (Salvia officinalis)




















Wild plants
Chickweed
Clover
Common sorrel
Daisy
Dandelion
Fat hen
Grass (most species including lawn)
Hawthorn
Nettle
Primrose
Sow thistle

Ornamental shrubs
These shrubs produce edible fruit. They are often sold in garden centres in the UK and can be found in many cultivated gardens in the British Isles.

Amelanchier (all species)
Creeping dogwood
Elaeagnus (some, probably all, species)
Fuchsia (all species)
Mahonia (some, probably all, species)
Pyracantha coccinea (the fruit not the seed)
Rosa (all species)
Sea Buckthorn

Annual vegetables
Annual vegetables have to be sown every year from seed.

Butternut squash
Celery
Courgette
Cress
Cucumber
Lettuce
Marrow
Pumpkin
Radish
Spring onions
Sweetcorn
Sweet pepper
Tomato

Perennial vegetables
Perennial vegetables do not need to be sown every year and will live for 2 years or more. Many will last indefinitely.

Asparagus
Chicory
Comfrey
Common sorrel
Jerusalem artichoke
Nettle
Nine star perennial broccoli
Perennial kale
Sea kale
Tree collards
Wild cabbage

Vegetables for the winter
These plants are very hardy and can be left growing until required even if the ground is frozen or covered in snow.

Brussels sprouts
Collards
Kale
Leek
Parsnip
Sea kale
Spinach
Swede
Turnip
Wild cabbage
Winter cabbage

Wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea)












Root vegetables
Beetroot
Carrot
Celeriac
Jerusalem artichoke
Parsnip
Potato
Radish
Salsify
Scorzonera
Skirret
Swede
Sweet potato
Turnip

Green leafy vegetables

Cabbage
Collards
Corn salad
Cress
Green purslane
Kale
Leaf beet
Lettuce
Mustard
Oriental vegetables
Sea vegetables
Spinach

Nuts and seeds
Almond
Beech
Flax
Hazel
Hemp
Pumpkin
Sweet chestnut
Walnut

Grain (cereals)
Barley
Oat
Quinoa
Rye
Wheat

Cultivated fruit
Apple
Blackberry
Cherry
Currant (black, red, white)
Dessert grape
Gojiberry
Gooseberry
Pear
Plum
Raspberry
Strawberry

Wild fruit
Blackberry
Bilberry
Crab apple
Dewberry
Rosehip (dog rose)
Elderberry
Haw (hawthorn)
Rowanberry (mountain ash)
Sea buckthorn
Service tree
Wild raspberry
Wild strawberry

Edible evergreen shrubs
Bamboo
Bilberry
Common thyme
Elaeagnus species
Holm oak
Olive
Rosemary
Sage
Salt bush
Strawberry tree
Yucca


The Best Edible Wild Plants in Britain: Easy to find & good to eat

$
0
0

Free sample chapters of The Best Edible Wild Plants in Britain. Available on Amazon. Free on Kindle Unlimited.


Available on Amazon

 

CHAPTER 1: Introduction

This book contains plants that I found in my garden which tasted good and were fairly easy to use. Since there are so many edible wild plants available I wanted to list those that I use most often to help others make the transition to eating wild plants much easier. There are a lot of plants that you can eat but, to be brutally honest, there are some that you really wouldn't want to!

I initially found these plants in my suburban garden in the south east of England and more recently on the land of a small holding in rural Scotland. I realise I am quite lucky in that my current foraging area is large and contains a variety of habitats including woodland with mature beech trees, moorland with gorse and a riparian area where I can find plants like marsh pennywort. However, most of the plants I use regularly are actually found near the house.

Looking close to home for your plants will encourage regular use. If you have to make a 50 mile round trip every time you want to eat a wild plant, you will soon tire of the whole foraging thing whether you like doing it or not. The easier you make the job of wild foraging the better. So remember the three 'F's: Forage From your Front door.

The first place to look for wild plants is always always always in your own garden. If you haven't got a garden, try those of your neighbours, relatives or friends. Most will be eternally grateful if you remove what they consider to be weeds. I'll go with the assumption that you've got yourself a garden. If you're looking out the window at this garden and the grass is mown short, the flower beds only contain flowers recently planted from the garden centre and there isn't a dandelion in sight, do not despair. Hope and wild plants spring eternal!

The first thing you need is a little time to let the wild plants grow and to learn to go a little bit wild in your mind. The most important thing is to let go of social conventions and brace yourself for any strange looks or comments from the neighbours. Even today, with all our talk of being green and looking after the planet, copious amounts of weed killer and slug pellets are still the norm. People simply refuse to let wild plants grow and generally try to make their gardens look like the inside of their house; all clean and tidy. Everything in a garden should not be shoved away, swept up and wiped down.

If you have an immaculate garden and are worried that you will never be able to find anything to eat, all is not lost. Remember how those so-called weeds kept coming back even though they were relentlessly removed? Week after week they kept coming up especially in the summer. It was a nightmare wasn't it?! That is all about to change. Now you need to look on these plants as a good rather than a bad thing. You need to stop weeding. It can be done in stages to ease you into it without too much anxiety. Begin by leaving a couple of metres at the end of the back garden to go wild. You could then move on to any formal beds you have. The ultimate challenge is probably letting the lawn grow. It's not easy to do, especially in a residential area where the pressure is on to give all lawns a number one buzz cut. This probably doesn't need to be said but do keep in mind that these plants are not only good for you, they are also good for wildlife.

The first time I let my front lawn grow instead of mowing it was over ten years ago and it was a very hair raising experience. It already contained a lot of plants other than grass because my dad never used weed killer on the lawn in 60 years. I think he resented paying for the weed killer rather than objecting to the danger of using chemicals! Anyway, I knew the plants were there. Hell, I could see them. Tiny little leaves that belonged to plants which hadn't been allowed to grow to their full potential in years!

The house was detached and the front lawn quite large. More importantly everyone in the neighbourhood could easily see it. Could I do it? Yes, but it took a while to pluck up the courage. Quite a few plants came up in that first showing including yarrow, clover, hawkweed, daisy, violets, cat's ear, ox eye daisies and the ubiquitous dandelion. The latter probably caused my neighbours more stress than anything else because I knew they really didn't want the dandelion seeds floating away on the wind and seeding their immaculate lawns which only contained one species ie. grass.

As a concession to the neighbours' nerves, the lawn was cut once the flowers got to the point of seeding. On a few occasions it didn't get mowed in time, I snuck out in the early hours of the morning and removed the seed 'clocks' by hand, shoving them unceremoniously into a polythene bag before ducking back in the front door. The neighbours, give them their due, didn't utter a word about the dandelions but I just knew they were relieved when I finally moved out.

If you can't find what you are looking for you can buy seeds, plug plants and larger potted plants from specialist nurseries on line. Do not shy away from growing your own foraging. It is not unnatural or something to be ashamed of. Search online for native wild flower sellers or organic herb nurseries as a starting point. I began sowing chickweed seed in my polytunnel for a fresh supply of wild salad greens. Once it became established I didn't need to do a thing. Chickweed self seeds readily and will come up quickly. It is one way of getting a reliable supply of fresh salad greens throughout the year.

While this book lists the wild plants I use, you will inevitably find others. I could list them all but the list is long and others have already completed this labour of love. Look out for blogs like Raw Edible Plants or organisations like Plants for a Future who maintain a wonderful online database of useful plants including how to identify them and eat them. This book, therefore, is not a comprehensive listing of edible wild plants but a starting point for your edible journey. Perhaps, if you are already on this journey, you will find a few things to add to your knowledge base. There are a great deal of wild plant enthusiasts around these days. They have books, blogs and online videos espousing recipes and recommended ways of using wild plants. Round of applause to them all. Be sure to check them out.

The following chapters comprise of plants that are relatively easy to find and don't take too much processing to make into something half decent to eat or drink. I've started off with the ones that are easier to find and that you might know already. As with all wild edible plants, check the Latin name when identifying them rather than use the common name as this is more accurate. Enjoy!

CHAPTER 2: Stinging nettles

The stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is one of my favourite plants because it screams 'stay away' and yet is one of the most useful plants found in temperate regions of the world. An herbaceous perennial from the Urticaceae family, it is known by many different common names throughout the world such as leaf nettle, common nettle, burn nettle, burn weed, burn hazel or just plain 'nettle'.
Robe up before you go in search of this little beauty. Any flesh showing will almost certainly come into contact with the tiny hairs made of silica called trichomes that break off easily dispersing a cocktail of chemicals into your body which include formic acid, histamine, acetylcholine and serotonin. These chemicals cause a stinging pain and ensure you suffer for hours afterwards with a tingly irritating numbness. Remedies for the sting include dock leaves, plantain leaves and calamine lotion but I can't guarantee any will be truly effective.

If you don't have any nettles in your garden, you can dig up a small clump of root and replant them. Nettles are considered invasive and difficult to get rid of so woe betide me for suggesting doing this. However, I don't think being labelled an 'invasive weed' is any reason not to grow a very useful edible plant. We spend far too much time eradicating plants that we should really be making use of.

Nettles grow to just over a metre in height with white to yellowish flowers but are best picked before they grow tall and flower. If you've got a good patch you can cut them down when they are about 30cm in height and let them grow again. This can be done three or four times a year or more under the right conditions. Remember the taller they get, the more tough and stringy they are. Also remember that this plant is good for wildlife attracting butterflies and moths so leave some plants to fully mature and flower. The tops of this plant will die down in the winter but it is a tough perennial and will emerge ready to go again in the spring.

The leaves, younger stems and the shoots can all be eaten raw. Use a clean glove and roll them tightly crushing them well before popping them in your mouth. This removes the sting. Other ways of removing the sting include wilting, blending, refrigerating, cooking and making a tea from them. I have to say I don't relish eating these little raw balls but prefer to add the fresh plant material to green smoothies or use to make a herbal tea. If you have any tea over it can be used as a hair rinse. My overwhelmingly favourite way of using the leaves, stems and shoots is by cooking them lightly in a little water and using like spinach. They have a nice mouth feel and are much less slimy. You can add fried onions, chickpeas and spices to make a type of spinach saag. Another age old favourite is, of course, to use nettles to make soup. A plentiful supply of nettles in your garden is a cheap and nutritious way of getting your daily greens.

Nettles have a lot of other uses. They make a good fibre which is created by stripping the outer stems. These stringy strips are then dried and spun into a yarn. Nettle yarn can then be knitted up or woven into a fabric. It is a long and somewhat fiddly process. Nettles are very beneficial medicinally but can also be used to make paper, biomass, compost/plant feed/compost activator, dye, rennet and oil.

My favourite ways to use nettle: The young leaves and stems made into a tea, added raw to green smoothies or cooked like spinach.


Dog rose (Rosa canina)

$
0
0

Dog rose (Rosa canina) is a hardy deciduous shrub in the Rosaceae family. Also known as bird briar, it has a mid-green foliage and pale pink, or sometimes white, scented flowers. Containing a mass of prickly stems, it produces vivid red rosehips during the autumn and winter months.

Dog rose is native to Britain, Europe, North Africa and South West Asia. The name 'dog rose' is a direct translation of the Latin name 'Rosa canina'. It was first described as a medicinal plant by Pliny the Elder (23-79BC) who noticed French tribes using it for the treatment of dog bites.

Dog rose (Rosa canina)
















Growing methods

Shrubs can be propagated from seed, cuttings, layering or by dividing suckers. To grow from seed, sow fresh seeds immediately after they have fully developed, but not dried, and they should germinate during the winter or the following spring. However, they may take a lot longer. Dried seed should be sown in early spring and will need to subjected to cold and then warmth before they will germinate. Even then they may take up to two years. Stratification of the seed aids germination. When seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be potted on into individual pots and planted out during summer months.

To propagate using cuttings, take hardwood cuttings in the autumn and plant out the rooted cuttings in late spring. The shrub can also be propagated by dividing the suckers during late autumn or winter and planting them out in their permanent positions.

Dog rose enjoys full sun or partial shade with moderately fertile soil but will tolerate poor conditions. Make sure the soil is moist but well drained. A mulch in the winter or early spring is beneficial. Shrubs can tolerate strong winds but not harsh coastal areas. Dog rose is great for wildlife gardens and wildflower meadows. However, it can be planted in more formal flower borders and cottage gardens.

It can suffer from rust and powdery mildew, and attack by aphids, leafhoppers, caterpillars, leaf cutting bees and red spider mite. It hybridizes freely with other members of this genus.

Other uses

The roots, leaves, branches and fruit of the dog rose have a number of herbal medicinal uses. The rosehips have been used as herbal medicine for more than 2000 years. They contain vitamins A, C and E, essential fatty acids, flavonoids and carotenoids. During the Second World War, rose hips were a key sources of vitamin C in Britain.

Rosehips (Rosa canina)
















This shrub is great for wildlife, attracting butterflies, bees, birds and moths. The prickly stems also provide protection for birds and small animals. In domestic situations, the shrub can be pruned into a hedge and will keep animals out or in.

Raw edible parts

The petals, red fruit (rosehips) and the tiny seed are all edible raw. An oil can be made from the seed and is often used in skin care products. The rosehips can be made into a fruit tea. The leaves can be made into a China tea substitute.

The shiny red rosehips are available during the autumn and winter. Allow the frosts to softened the hard red skin and scoop out the seed and tiny hairs before eating. While the hairs on the seed are an irritant and should not be imbibed, the seed itself is edible raw and is a source of vitamin E. It can be dried and ground to a powder and used as a supplement.

To remove the hairs from the seed, cut the red hips in half and dry them. Then grind them roughly in a food processor or by hand using a knife. Place everything in a sieve and shake well over some paper. The hairs will fall through on to the paper and can be discarded.

Traditionally, rosehips have been cooked to make a syrup, jam, jelly or soup. The petals have been used to make a scented jam.

All Rosa species have edible fruit and most, if not all, species have edible flowers.

Issues: The tiny hairs on the seed are an irritant to the mouth and digestive tract. They should be removed.

Cleavers (Galium aparine)

$
0
0
Cleavers (Galium aparine) is an herbaceous annual plant from the Rubeaceae family. It has many common names including clivers, goose grass, sticky willy, coachweed, catchweed, robin-run-the-hedge, stickybud, stickyjack, grip grass and stickeljack.

A cleavers (Galium aparine) plant growing low in the ground
Cleavers (Galium aparine)



















This plant is found widespread throughout the world and popularly known for the annoying habit of sticking to clothing. The stems grow along the ground, up and over anything in its path. It can easily smother a low growing plant or shrub. It is listed as a weed in many places.

Cleavers is native to the British Isles, Europe, North Africa and Asia. It has naturalised in many other countries including the USA, Canada and Mexico.

Growing methods

Seeds are produced readily (300-400 seeds per plant) and spread easily by sticking to animals and human clothing. They can remain viable in the soil for up to six years. They are best sown fresh during from August until September when the seed is ripe. Plants are quick to establish and will grow to 1.2 metres in height, spreading to around 3 metres.

Cleavers will grow on most soil types, in the sun or shade and can often be found on ground that has been disturbed, back gardens, waste land, hedgerows, cultivated and uncultivated land. Plants are frost hardy and in flower from June to August. If you already have some in your garden, cleavers will continue to come up of its own accord so there is no need to fuss about growing it.

Illustration by Otto Wilhelm Thomé (1885)


Other uses

Gardeners may consider it a weed but, as is the case with so-called 'weeds', it is a resilient useful edible and medicinal plant. It is used in herbal and homeopathic medicine. The root can be used as a permanent red dye. A thick layer of the stems can be used as a rough sieve. The stems have been used in the past as a stuffing for mattresses. Stems can also be used as tinder to light fires. The bristles on the plant make it useful to clean sticky hands of tar. An infusion of the plant can be used as a hair rinse. It is useful to wildlife; it is pollinated by insects and is food for some butterfly larvae.

Issues

Covered with rough hairs and containing and irritating sap, this plant can cause contact dermititis.

Raw edible parts

The whole plant is edible raw and can be made into a beneficial green tea. However, the aerial parts of this plant contains hooked hairs, like Velcro, which can be rough and irritating. It is best, therefore, to eat the young parts of the plant such as the top 10-20cm of the growing tips and ground shoots.

The whole plant dries well and can be used for the winter months when the top of the plant dies down and is not available. The seeds can be dry roasted to make a coffee substitute. The shoots have historically been used as a pot herb. The flowers used to be used to curdle milk in cheese making.
Viewing all 106 articles
Browse latest View live